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More information about Rolex »

Rolex SA is a Swiss manufacturer of high quality, luxury wristwatches. Rolex watches are popularly regarded as status symbols and BusinessWeek magazine ranks Rolex #71 on its 2007 annual list of the 100 most valuable global brands. Rolex is also the largest single luxury watch brand by far, producing about 2,000 watches per day, with estimated revenues of around £1.75 billion (US$3 billion) (SwFr3.02 billion) (2003 figures).

History

In 1905 Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis founded "Wilsdorf and Davis" in London. Their main business at the time was importing Hermann Aegler's Swiss movements to England and placing them in quality watch cases made by Dennison and others. These early wristwatches were sold to jewellers, who then put their own names on the dial. The earliest watches from Wilsdorf and Davis were usually hallmarked "W&D" inside the caseback.
In 1908 Wilsdorf registered the trademark "Rolex" and opened an office in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The company name "Rolex" was registered on 15 November 1915. The word was made up, but its origin is obscure. Wilsdorf was said to want his watch brand's name to be easily pronounceable in any language. He also thought that the name "Rolex" was onomatopoeic, sounding like a watch being wound. It was also short enough to fit on the face of a watch. One story, never confirmed by Wilsdorf, is that the name came from the French phrase horlogerie exquise, meaning "exquisite clockwork". The book The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History by Jeffrey P. Hess and James Dowling says that the name was just made up.
In 1914 Kew Observatory awarded a Rolex watch a Class A precision certificate, a distinction which was normally awarded exclusively to marine chronometers.
In 1919 Wilsdorf moved the company to Geneva, Switzerland where it was established as the Rolex Watch Company. Its name was later changed to Montres Rolex, SA and finally Rolex, SA. The company moved out of the United Kingdom because taxes and export duties on the silver and gold used for the watch cases were driving costs too high.
Upon the death of his wife in 1944, Wilsdorf established the Hans Wildorf Foundation in which he left all of his Rolex shares, making sure that some of the company's income would go to charity. The company is still owned by a private trust and shares are not traded on any stock exchange.
In December 2008 the abrupt departure of Chief Executive Patrick Heiniger, for “personal reasons”, was followed by a denial by the company that it had lost SwFr1 billion (approx £574 million) invested with Bernard Madoff, the American asset manager who pleaded guilty to an approximately £30 billion (approx US$50 billion) world-wide Ponzi scheme fraud.

Innovations

 
The Rolex Submariner Professional Date
Among the company's innovations are:
  • The first wristwatch with an automatically changing date on the dial (Rolex Datejust, 1945)
  • The first wristwatch with an automatically changing day and date on the dial (Rolex Day-Date)
  • The first wristwatch case waterproof to 100m (330 ft) (Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner, 1953)
  • The first wristwatch to show two time zones at once (Rolex GMT Master, 1954)
  • The first watchmaker to earn chronometer certification for a wristwatch

Automatic movements

The first self-winding Rolex wristwatch was offered to the public in 1931, preceded to the market by Harwood which patented the design in 1923 and produced the first self-winding watch in 1928, powered by an internal mechanism that used the movement of the wearer's arm. This not only made watch-winding unnecessary, but eliminated the problem of over-winding a watch and harming its mechanism.

Quartz movements

Rolex participated in the development of the original quartz watch movements. Although Rolex has made very few quartz models for its Oyster line, the company's engineers were instrumental in design and implementation of the technology during the late 1960s and early 1970s. In 1968, Rolex collaborated with a consortium of 16 Swiss watch manufacturers to develop the Beta 21 quartz movement used in their Rolex Quartz Date 5100. Within about five years of research, design, and development, Rolex created the "clean-slate" 5035/5055 movement that would eventually power the Rolex Oysterquartz.

Water resistant cases

Rolex was also the first watch company to create a wristwatch water resistant to 100m (330 ft). Wilsdorf even had a specially made Rolex watch attached to the side of the Trieste bathyscaphe, which went to the bottom of the Mariana Trench. The watch survived and tested as having kept perfect time during its descent and ascent. This was confirmed by a telegram sent to Rolex the following day saying "Am happy to confirm that even at 11,000 metres your watch is as precise as on the surface. Best regards, Jacques Piccard".
Rolex GMT Master II gold and stainless steel (ref. 116713LN)

Collections

Rolex produced specific models suitable for the extremes of deep-sea diving, mountain climbing and aviation. Early sports models included the Rolex Submariner and the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date Sea Dweller. The latter watch has a helium release valve, co-invented with Swiss watchmaker Doxa, to release helium gas build-up during decompression. The Explorer and Explorer II were developed specifically for explorers who would navigate rough terrain, such as the world famous Mount Everest expeditions. The most iconic model is the Rolex GMT Master, which was originally developed in 1954 at the request of Pan-Am Airways to assist its pilots with the problem of crossing multiple time-zones when on transcontinental flights (GMT standing for Greenwich Mean Time). In 2005 this classic watch was updated and re-issued as the Rolex GMT Master II "50th anniversary edition".

Certified chronometers

Rolex is the largest manufacturer of Swiss made certified chronometers. In 2005 more than half the annual production of COSC certified watches were Rolexes. To date, Rolex still holds the record for the most certified chronometer movements in the category of wristwatches.

Watch models

Rolex Daytona stainless steel (ref. 116520)
Rolex Sea Dweller Deepsea with 3,900m depth rating (ref. 116660)
 
Rolex Daytona chronograph stainless steel, white dial (ref. 6263)
Rolex has three watch lines: Oyster Perpetual, Professional and Cellini (the Cellini line is Rolex's line of 'dressy' watches) and the primary bracelets for the Oyster line are named Jubilee, Oyster and President.

Modern Rolex models

  • Air-King
  • Date
  • Datejust
  • Datejust II
  • Datejust Turn-O-Graph
  • Lady Datejust Pearlmaster
  • Daytona
    • Paul Newman Daytona
  • Day-Date
  • Day-Date II
  • Day-Date Oyster Perpetual
  • Explorer
  • Explorer II
  • GMT Master II
  • Masterpiece
  • Milgauss
  • Sea Dweller
  • Sea Dweller DeepSea
  • Submariner
  • Yacht-Master
  • Yacht-Master II

Cellini models

  • Quartz Ladies
  • Quartz Mens
  • Cellinium
  • Cestello Ladies
  • Cestello Mens
  • Danaos Mens
  • Prince

Pricing

Rolex watches vary in price according to the model and the materials used. In the UK, the retail price for the highly sought-after stainless steel 'Pilots' range (such as the GMT Master II) starts from £4,360 (approx US$7,220) upwards, while the 18ct gold Daytona models fetch £53,190 (approx US$88,500). Diamond inlay watches go for considerably more.